Daisy May Window Appliqué Cameo Vest

 

Daisy May Window Appliqué Cameo Vest
Presented by Joyce Drexler on
Martha's Sewing Room

Panel print by Spring Industries. Upholstery fabric over-dyed
by Evelyn Howard.

"Designer's Choice" Vest Pattern
by Lorraine Torrence Designs - 2112 S. Spokane St. - Seattle, WA 98144

 

Back view of vest
Supplies
  • Sewing Machine with Computerized Embroidery Capability
  • Amazing Designs Embroidery Card
    #AD3000 “Inspirational Concepts in Sulky” by Joyce Drexler
    Also marketed under GN-3000
  • Sulky Threads for Embellishing
  • Sulky Solvy Water Soluble Stabilizer
  • Liquid Solvy
  • Sulky Totally Stable Iron-on Stabilizer
  • Sulky Tear-Easy Stabilizer
  • Sulky Soft 'n Sheer Cut-Away Stabilizer
  • Sulky KK 2000 Temporary Spray Adhesive
  • Sulky Smoke and Clear Polyester Invisible Thread
  • White Washable Marker
  • Stencil Cutting or Wood Burning Tool
  • Cat panel or feature fabric of your choice
  • Vest Pattern with Fashion Fabric as required for Vest of your choice
  • Extra fabric for window frame, approx. 13" x 16"
  • Fine-line, permanent-ink marker
  • General Sewing Supplies
Preparing the Fabric
  1. Cut out vest pattern pieces. Set aside all but the two fronts. If embellishing both fronts, apply liquid Solvy to both, otherwise, only apply to left front. Dry and press. Draw gntle curves and half-circles with a White Washable Marker.
  2. Using Sulky 30 wt. Rayon Variegated Thread # 2131 Vari-Khakis, free-motion straight stitch the curves and half-circles.
  3. Note: Evelyn overdyed this yellow upholstery fabric with green to give it a mottled hand-dyed look.
Select Motif Design Area for Cameo Window,
and Embellish
  1. Lay a piece of Solvy over left vest front and use a fine-line, permanent-ink marker to trace vest shape onto it. To preview selection, trace the window shape from pattern (see pattern download at the end of these instructions). onto the largest area of the vest shape and lay it over the motif area you have selected from the feature fabric. Trace the outline of the major features surrounding your selected motif onto the Solvy pattern. Cut out motif from the feature fabric, leaving a generous margin on all sides. Put aside the the Solvy window pattern.
  2. Iron Sulky Totally Stable onto the back of the cut-out motif. Free-motion embellish as desired. Evelyn highlighted the cat with Sulky 40 wt. Rayon #1056 Med Tawny Tan and #1001 Bright White; the birdhouse with UltraTwist #3019 and #3032; and the leaves with Sulky 40 wt. #1208 Mallard Green.
Make the Cameo Window
  1. Cut a piece of any cotton fabric for the window lining at least 2" larger all around than the window. Place the left vest front right side up and spray with Sulky KK 2000 on the area where the window will be placed. Place the window lining fabric wrong side up on the vest front. Spray KK 2000 on the whole left vest front fabric (including the window lining) and place the Solvy pattern on top, using the markings traced from the feature fabric to place correctly.
  2. Using regular sewing thread, straight stitch on the drawn window line. Cut away both layers of fabric inside the window line, leaving approximately a 1/2" seam allowance. Clip all the way around. Do not remove the Solvy that remains.
  3. Turn through to the back. Trim Solvy and lining, leaving a 1" seam allowance; press. Spritz the 1" seam allowance with water. Re-press to bond the pieces for a sharp, stable edge.
Insert Embellished Print
  1. Position embellished motif behind the window, using the Solvy pattern as your guide for placement; pin in place.
  2. With a matching Sulky 30 wt. solid color or blending 30 wt. variegated, topstitch from the right side about 1/8" from the edge, using an edge foot, if available.
Add Leaves from the Print
  1. If your feature fabric has leaves, cut, place and fuse them (see the photo as a placement guide) using your favorite fusible web.
  2. Using Sulky Smoke Polyester Invisible Thread, select an applique stitch to stitch down the edges of the leaves.
  3. Wash out Solvy. Dry and press.
Optional - Right Front of Vest
  1. Because Evelyn's fabric had flowers and leaves on the right vest front, she free-motion straight stitched several times over the leaf outline using Sulky 40 wt. Rayon #1208 Mallard Green.
  2. She outlined the flowers several times using the free-motion straight stitch and Sulky 30 wt. Rayon #1080- Orchid and #1032 Med Purple.
  3. She detailed and shaded the flower centers using a scribbling straight stitch and Sulky 30 wt. Rayon #1156 Lt. Army Green.
Embroider Flower Appliques
  1. Hoop 3 layers of white or black Sulky Soft 'n Sheer Stabilizer.
  2. On the Soft 'n Sheer, embroider the daisies and leaves from the Amazing Designs Embroidery Card AD3000 after advancing past the first two zones. Stop the stitching when it starts lettering. Evelyn sewed two sets of daisies with Sulky 40 wt. #1001 Bright White and one set with #1080 Orchid. The centers are #1159 Temple Gold.
  3. Remove from hoop and cut away the Soft 'n Sheer close to the edge of the design.
  4. Melt away remaining Soft 'n Sheer with a stencil cutting or wood burning tool.
  5. Repeat the previous 4 steps to make as many flowers as you want to place on the vest.
Embroider Flower Appliques
  1. Spray KK 2000 on the back of each flower applique and place in your desired arrangement on the right vest front; securely fasten them using Sulky Clear Polyester Invisible Thread to stitch around the edges with either a straight stitch or a narrow zig-zag.
  2. Construct the vest following vest pattern instructions.
  3. Tip: If Joyce wants to see how colors work in a computerized embroidery design, or to do a test sew-out, she does it on Soft 'n Sheer and then saves them for a project such as this one.
Pattern

For the pattern, we are providing it as a download from the browser below. You may click the image and then print the pattern that appears or you may save the image to your local hard drive.

The pattern is scaled to fit on an 8-1/2" X 11" piece of paper, though it might have to be rotated. If you wish to use a larger size, you can scale it up appropriately in your print dialog box or print it out as provided and enlarge it by some other means (copy machine, projector, local blueprint shop etc). 

If you wish to save to your local hard drive proceed as follows: 

PC users - right click on the image and select "save this image as..." in the pop up menu. 

Mac users - control click to bring up the popoup menu and then select "save this image as..."